Weekend bathroom update...how to frame a bathroom mirror

 I have been slowly but surely moving along with the bathroom updates in my youngest daughters bathroom...this week I built a frame for the mirror...it just finishes the mirror off.

 Here it is in my shop all ready for painting

 I used my kregjig to make a simple frame with pocket hole construction...a little bit of detail moulding and I had myself a simple frame.

 A lot of people were asking how to attach a frame to an existing mirror.It's easy I just cut up some strips of thin plywood, it is just slightly deeper than the frame and clips. Attach the strips to studs in the wall with a couple of screws.

 Then paint the frame and make sure to paint at least an inch of the back of the frame so that the reflection is the same color as the front of the frame.

 I just used my nail gun to attach the frame to the strips of plywood, filled the holes and touched up the paint....really, it is that easy. Waiting for the paint to dry was the longest process in this project.

 I also finally took out my sewing machine and hemmed these drapery panels I bought months ago for this bathroom...what a huge difference full length double panels make to this area. I find shower curtains so....wimpy, they are too short and not nearly as full as they should be...so I chose these seersucker white drapes. I had to buy two shower curtain rods one I installed as high as I could for the drapes and one just slightly lower for the liner, I had to also find a longer than average liner...I got it from Bed bath and beyond...it was actually so long I had to trim it a little bit but that was easy enough. The drapes I found at Homesense.

 Seersucker and subway tile...love

 I also got to the job of building the face frame for the vanity yesterday...next I will cut out and install a foot detail, if all goes well...then I will be adding drawers slides and building basic drawers. I still have to decide if I want to build the drawer fronts and doors or if I will just have them built by a local cabinet door company....I'm just not sure what the best decision is on that.
 Don't even get me started on what color to paint this vanity cabinet...Sophie said maybe white would be too much white, but is that even really a thing? Maybe light grey to go with the faux marble tile floor and real marble accents on the wall....actually the accent tile comes off a little grey especially in photos but it is white it's just not as white a white as the subway tile is...I kind of like that.

Now you are up to date if you are following along...thank you so much for stopping by.

DIY shaker doors

I thought I would do a little tutorial on how I made these simple DIY shaker doors they are really quite simple to make and cost me about $10-12 each...they might be worth a try for your next DIY project.

I needed 7 doors for the current dining room buffet project I am working on...I am trying to keep on a tight budget and having doors made for me would have cost about $35-40 a door which is pretty good but I thought if I could save $$ on the doors I could put that towards the marble peice I want for the middle section of the buffet. $280 plus tx for custom doors or $70 for DIY doors....it was a no brainer. (don't worry I did swap out the plywood in the last door to match the grain of the others)

I promise it's easy...

How I keep it really easy is by using unfinished pine flooring which is available at most lumber stores at under $1 a linear foot.

Tools & supplies you will need:
miter saw
pocket hole jig
clamps
table saw
drill
orbital sander
1/4" plywood
pine flooring wider than 3" I used 5"
1 1/4"  kreg screws

Step one, using a table saw you will need to rip off the tongue of the wood flooring , I chose to make my rails and stiles 2 1/2" wide

Step two, miter your top and bottom pieces to the desired size. Make sure to sand the grove side of your wood.

Step three, drill your pocket holes onto the back side of the stiles.

Step four, you will need to cut the plywood or bead board if you choose to just slightly larger than the opening, 5/16"-6/16" is good (just over a 1/4")

Step five, using a clamp to hold your miter together attach the stiles to one rail then slide in the plywood and then attach the bottom rail. You don't need to glue the joints as the screws will hold the corners well enough. The center panel will just sit in the groove and can expand and contract freely.

Step six, starting with 80 grit of sand paper sand all the joints flush and smooth I then followed with 150 grit for all the edges and front and back of the frames then a final sanding of 220 which left it perfectly smooth and ready for priming and painting. I then decided after all the sanding to fill the pocket holes followed by another final sanding, the pocket hole plugs I thought I would use were actually micro pocket hole plugs so I went with filler instead. I know a little backwards....I hook up my orbital sander to my wet dry vac for all my sanding.. if you can you should do this and wear ear protection, eye protection and most importantly a mask. Of course you can use pocket hole plugs and glue them in place let them dry and then sand them flush or use a japanese flush saw to cut off any excess followed by sanding.

Well there it is my tutorial on how I build simple shaker doors with mitered corners for approx $12 each...

Please feel free to share and PIN and if you have any questions please feel free to ask me.

Please let me know if you use this tutorial I'd love to see what you have done.

I typically use this style of hinge it is a non-mortise bi-fold hinge...I like to see the hinge.